The Country of Hospitality

In 2017 I spent one month in Armenia to do a documentary reportage on the country`s parliamentary elections. In my month long stay, I saw a country, disturbed by war and natural catastrophes, fall longer and longer down in abysses. But I also saw an amazing country. I came because of friends, the amazing hospitality, the incredible nature - and last but not least, to ski. 

In this occasion, I wrote an article for the norwegian skiing magazine "Fri Flyt", in its 2018 january edition.

Here are some unpublished pictures from the country where East meets West. A country filled with charm, incredible nature experiences, a wonderful blend of pride, hospitality and religious fanaticism.

Welcome to Armenia - more then just a ski destination.  

The Ararat Mountain is very important to the Armenian people, and they are almost religious about it. It is perhaps not so strange, since it was here Noah, according to the Bible, landed with his ark after the big Flood. What worries the Armenians, is that the mountain is now situated in Turkey. So even though the mountain is clearly visible from the capital Yerevan, it is still so far away, behind closed boundaries. The mountain is truly magical, here seen from the country's current highest mountain, Mt Aragat.

Armenia

Former Sovjet Republic in Caucasus. Independet in 1991.
3 millioner inhabitants.
Language: Armenian, Russian and to some degree english. 

Transportation
Flight:
2300 – 3000 NOK Oslo – Yerevan - Oslo. (Aeroflot. KLM)
Internal transportation:
Taxi: 55 – 350 NOK
Bus: 22 NOK
Rental Car: 280-380 NOK

Accomadation: 
Hotell:
in Yerevan 270 – 970 NOK
Outside Yerevan: 125 NOK
Hostel Yerevan: from 100 NOK

Local Mountainguide  250 €
www.uptherocks.com

Ski-facility: Tsakhkadzor. 6 lifts with 27 km slopes and 853 meter altitude difference.  22 €.

Villages as bases for backcountry skiing:
Aparan, Aghveran, Yeghipatrush, the curch Tsakhevank at the foot of Mt Araler, and Melikgyugh. The road to Aragats goes trough Byurakan.

Armenia's rugged landscape does not always provide good forest skiing, but the valley around the village of Aghveran is one of the exceptions. 

Armenia is a sparsely populated country where the majority of the population lives in urban areas. The countryside is poor and people often works in the mining industry or farming. Most of the time its all abandoned. Nevertheless, small remote villages like this, Melikgyugh, provides a good access directly into the mountains.

Armenia is the first country in the world who got Christianity as a state religion. Ruins of once magnificent churches are often seen in nature. Here we are in an eremite cave at the Arals mountain. The cave is an old church, and according to rumors, men is still taking kidnapped brides here, to complete the marriage.

Mt Araler does not only have a religious mysticism, but also offers exciting opportunities for good skiing. Here, Christoph Herby enoys the deep telemark turns, just an hour's drive away from the city of Yerevan.

At a height of 3200 meters above see level, just below the top of Armenia's highest mountain, Aragat, there is a metrological station where you could spend the night. The conditions are simple, but it gives greater access to the highest mountain early in the season. Later in the season there is an open roadway up to the station.

Me and my friend Christoph at the top of the south peak of Aragats

Aragats er en gammel vulkan, og gir en spennende skikjøring i et noe goldt terreng. På grunn av høyden og det tørre klimaet kan derimot snøen være utfordrende, med lite og hard snø. Nede til høyre kan man skimte forskningsstasjonen hvor vi overnattet natten før.

A ski trip to Armenia is about so much more than just skiing, and provides a wonderful journey to a country filled to the verge of history, contrasts and hospitality.

the Norwegian Alpine Club's 2017 Winter-gathering

day 1. 

Between the 23 - 26th of february, the Norwegian Alpine Club (NTK) decided to arrange a gathering for Alpine climbers in the Stetind Area. I don´t really have any big ambitions to do a lot of big and bad Alpin stuff, but this being in my backyard I just had to attend. 

But after one of my friends backed out, I was without an partner to climb with. Seeing a facebook post, that yet another climber were missing a partner I decided to contact him. Of course, the curious guy as I am, was doubting for some moments, since I didnt know the guy, and he didn't have facebook either.  I think the most of us have met climbers with wired, unknown and sometimes outright dangerous methods. Thats why I usually like to climb with people I know. 

But this guy had good references, and after a nice phone call we decided that this could very well work. Helge as his name is, was apparently a very nice guy, and even more so in reality. Even though nice persons could be bad climbers off course. 

Anyhow, we discussed ambitions and came to the conclusion that this could work. 

But getting up north, after massive snowfalls, it looked more like good skiing conditions and bad climbing conditions. Especially because of high avalanche risks and lack of ice in the mountains. As a "get to know each other" trip we decided to do some nice and easy skiing for our first day. -We choose to go to the Stetind area, and we were not alone. This seemed to be the choice of many this day.  The visibility was definitely not on our side, and soon our little team was the only one left. 

After skiing some forrest lines, we soon saw that the weather might possibly clear up, and we decided to head for one of the opposite peaks, "Titiden". We actually came to climb the little peak next to "Titiden", from now on called "halvti-tinden." 

The snow was surely dangoures this day, and the snow was collapsing all around us, but we kept walking in good terrain, and actually got very good skiing.   

Day 2.

discussing our options and wishes before we met, Stetind was a highly wished peak to reach, for both me and Helge. The avalanche risk and bad weather, preventing visibility, was our greatest opponents for the moment. 

Then snow had been unstable for quit an period because of strong winds, and  there were terrain we were a bit worried about on the approach. With the usual shifting weather in Northern-Norway, we were as well concerned that the weather would close up, even though the next to days said sun. 

Not loosing any chances, we decided to have a go the next morning. The weather-forecast said a bit cloudy until midday, but that it should clear up during the afternoon. 

The walk up to "Halls fortopp", where the climbing really starts, is a pretty long 3 hour approach. The deep snow surely didn't do it any better either. 

Helge started to climb, eager as he was. We enjoyed the company of another team trough the whole day, with Joel, Eivind and Erik being just by our sides.

Erik and Helge doing a really good job leading todays hardest part, 

the famous "ten embittered finger holds".  An usually easy climb during 

summer, but more challenging in winter, and as in summer its scary far down. 

luckily we didn't have much view, or my nerves would be really startling

being out in the dark could be pretty fucking amazing sometimes. Wish I had a better camera this time, mine being at repairs. 
I did like this one though, capturing our 3 friends on their way down. Presttind in the background.

Day 3. 

Coming in pretty late the other day, we decided to have a late start and a real sunday hike. We came pretty late to the parking, and used a lot of time on the approach as well. Today we were heading for another, but much smaller classic, the Hamarøyskaftet. 

On a sunday like this, we probably used more then a hour on the approach, which didn't matter to much since easy climb were awaiting us. I hadn't been on Hamarøyskafte for over 5, so the route was basically as new for me as for Helge. 

Hamarøyskaftet is a mini version of Stetind, with only 512 meters, and with nice and easy climb to the top. A perfect sunday walk. The Climb is probably much more interesting in the middle of the winter, but now it was rather easy as in the summer, and we might just as well have been climbing in rock shoes for this day.

finally getting ready to go down, after using several hours getting the ropes fixed up.  

after having lunch and a coffee break in the sun, we were heading down before we would loose the sun. But after finishing the first rappel, we soon discovered that the rope was stuck. Since it was probably my fault, going to far on the rappel, I volunteered to up-climb the abseil. After going up to fix it several times, I finally managed to fix the ropes, and at the same time i found the rappel I missed the first time. 

Day 4. 

the gathering was only suppose to last for 3 days, but I was pretty stoked at having another day in the mountains, so when Carl and Olov asked for local advice i volunteered straight away. Seldom having guests in our home mountains, I was glad to show friends and common mountains lovers the place i grew up. 

As so many other times, I decided to go to the Vargfjord-peak, the most diverse and easy accessible ski-terrain in our area. Neither Calle or Olov had never been in the area before, but both immediately saw the potential of the area, and we are likely to see them back. 

We had a good day, as an end to a even better weekend. 

up guides - sum up

As some of you may remember, my friend Johanna Davidson, the Swedish explorer (yes Johanna, I think we could call you an explorer with pride now) was planing her trip to the South-pole last year. Not only did she plan it, but she also started to walk last December - ending up being the fastest woman ever skiing to the South-pole, and beating everyone on her way back. wow! - its just so inspiring to follow your achievements. 

But why would I mention Johanna in this blog about my latest trip to France? Well except from the obvious reason, bragging about my friendship with a person now to be mentioned with people like Scott and Amundsen, Johanna is actually indirectly the cause for me going to France. Going to the South-pole is not only challenging in the first place, but its rather expensive as well. Helping Johanna raise money for the trip, her brother in law Fred, made a lottery where the price would be a week of skiing in Maurienne with him and his fellow guides at UP ski & mountain guides. Well guess what, I won myself a week of joy. 

Barely having time to resettle after just moving out and ending my job career for now, I set sail for the southern parts of the French Alps. My destination - the Maurienne Valley. The Maurienne valley is the neighbouring valley to more famous ski-resorts like Tignes and Val-d'Isère, and is pretty much directly west of Torino or Milan. For me going there, the best way was to fly down to Geneva, and take the train down to Modane for a pick up. The Valley have lift-system after lift-system, but do not have the same problem as other places, that is overcrowded slopes. The Valley is more known for local French tourists, the main part being families, and therefore giving you decent odds of being fairly alone in the off-piste. My stay was during the French winter holidays, making the slopes pretty full from time to time, but we usually managed in the off-piste.

August the driver, knows how to fly as well

Before coming to the Valley, it wasn't much snow, but finally two days before my arrival, the sky opened and white gold fell down. The dump was the first real dump of the season, saving a somehow dry season. It was great snow, and I think the pictures talks for themselves. The lack of a proper sole was of course not super ideal, and could be rather troublesome if not dangerous in the lower parts. 

the snow just wouldnt stop coming the first days. 

drinking champagne with the boys. celebrating the coming powder days

During my stay, I stayed in a small, cosy and seemingly deserted little French Village. We almost never saw any people there, like people were hiding. I stayed in a shared apartment with Fred, the Swedish guide Oscar, the driver August, the French Champagne-maker Thibault and some Norwegian powder hobos, Ørjan and Jonas. The crew was nice and smelly as they should be, and we enjoyed good food and drinks during the evenings, even though most of us was just longing for bed after a long day out. 

Normally Fred and UP Guides are helpful in giving a package for every group that is coming, setting up what is the best for you. There are variable options for shared flats, Gites and hotels - an option for most price-classes and desires. 

the uperside of the village of Sollieres.

The skiing is based in any of the many facilities in the valley, depending on the snow, visibility and where the guests have been. You are sure to get variated skiing anyhow. If the snow is good, as we mostly experienced, we stay in the ski-facilities, doing laps and getting as much good skiing as possible. When it starts to get less snow close to the slopes, its time to start walking. 

There are several places close to the lifts, giving ideal skiing with minimal effort. If your short on time, this is probably what you want. walking 15 minutes to get untouched snow for as loong as you can see is not to bad is it. 

wine and tapas; a great way of ending the day

Well France is known for its kitchen, and it dosnt disappoint, either its Raclette or Fondue, or just some good local cheese and sausage. The area have some good restaurants, and if your a food-lover, I'm sure you'll enjoy the dinning.  

helpful and smiling guides, as they should be, doing their best to make the most out of the customors time

Find Sylvain !

For the sunnier days, when most places got tracks, and the feet needs some rests, its time to go ski-touring. We got some great smaller trips, and the last day we had a nice 4 hour walk to the top of a mountain, all in sun, before skiing down the north face in dry and good powder. A day to remember.

Carolinne sets sails down the Couloir de Militaire  

Happy hippos just finishing the Couloir filled with pow

the bird, the jet-plane. the flying Hollender, The August August

"Welcome to my World"

burning hot view

Carl enojoys the last turns of the week; going down in the north side, getting cold and fluffy pow! 

Guide Oscar shows the way to POW

not only does he make good champagne, but Thibault also knows how to ski. 

a big thanks to UP guides for hosting me a beautiful week in France! recommendable. 

see you up -north. 

for more info about UP ski & mountain guides; click here

Solo Sister

This November, Johanna Davidson, a Swedish polar adventurer is reaching for what some consider the ultimate goal – the South Pole.

Even though Sweden isn’t as big of a polar nation like its neighbouring country Norway, or other Europeans countries like the UK or Russia, there have been Swedes on the south pole before. Nevertheless, before Johanna sets out on here mission, no female swede have ever skied solo to the pole, and maybe yet more impressive, no Swede have before her gone for the southernmost area on our planet; without a return ticket home.

Johanna, which is educated as a nurse, and lives her life in the Arctic Capitol of Tromsø, is used to the wild. She spent plenty of winter seasons in the Alps and during 92 days she paddled by herself 3660 km of the coast of Sweden and Finland; however, this is not what made her known to the public. In 2014, she kited from southern Greenland, all the way to the north with her older sister. They crossed 2300 in 36 days, and was appointed “Female adventurers of the year” in Sweden.

I caught up with Johanna in late July, for some climbing in her excellent backyard in Tromsø, a place that really seems to suit here. However, even though Johanna isn't a complete stranger to the wild and polar areas, what makes her go into an Antarctic isolation for over two months, even risking her life…?  Johanna explains that she has some form of fascination towards big oceans and endless plains.

"I feel that I have some short of fascination towards the endlessness that vast open spaces represent. I'm dragged towards huge oceans as well as huge plains, like the South Pole Plateau itself. Its something about being so far from any form of civilization, being in an almost unexplored area. At the same time, when you know that you are completely alone, it feels more extreme. It makes the challenge much greater, and you need to plan everything to a greater extent."

Johanna admits that its a long period to be all by herself, but she says its just nice to be alone sometimes, without being disturbed by someone. "Its just great to think without being disturbed. To think clear about what you have accomplished, and what you want to accomplish in the future. There is a lot to think of.  I think I got some idea how it is to be alone for so long time, when I paddled for three months alone on the coast of Finland and Sweden, its not that bad."

Johanna leads the way steadily. 

The expedition starts in November, but even before she walked a meter on the South Pole, there have been immense work beforehand; on planning, training, talking with sponsors, again and again. When Johanna is confronted with this, she admits its really an enormous amount of work putted into the project beforehand, estimating that 70% of the work is already done before taking a single step on the South Pole. She explains that there is tons of work, concerning everything from planing the practical part, training, how to document the expedition, getting help and advice. Its a full scale jigsaw with tons of pieces.  

Unfortunately, some of the biggest challenges is to raise the money needed for the expedition, and Johanna used an incredible amount of time to get it. She managed to get some big and good sponsors, but expeditions like this, usually cost much more than what we think. Today she got most parts covered by sponsors and contributions, but she admits its necessary for her to loan money as well. Nothing comes for free, especially not the South Pole.

"Im not walking around being afraid or anything, if I was that, I wouldn't have done this at all".  

Johanna starts to talk about the challenges during her trip, and if there is anything in special that worries her. She explains, that even though she's alone, and she´s completely surrounded by wilderness, there have been allot of people on the route, and there is lots of information available about the area from other expeditions. She is mostly worried about getting injured, frostbites or some short of inflammation, especially when she is kiting back. When you are kiting, you expose your body to far greater power, and the risk of hurting your body grows. Its important to remember the long distances she is surrounded by, and if anything happens, its not certain the weather is good enough for external help to fly in. As Johanna says, there is no guarantee that things would end good, but those guarantees doesn't exist in daily life either, or as she would put it:  "I just need to do this, there is no way back".   

She clearly sees the advantage of being a nurse, making it easier to see symptoms and therefore preventing further damage. Off course she outlines that she doesn't hope that this set of skills will be needed. However, staying healthy or not, she admits the journey will be long and heavy. Some days will certainly be worse than others, a real pain in the ass, but she is hoping for good days as well. Days were it wouldn't be as much storms, and were she can enjoy the trip more, and most importantly, days were she can do necessary repairs if needed. 

As extra motivations, she thinks she will bring some music, or recorded pep talk, or to have someone in her family or among friends which she could call, when she need extra motivation. 

the planing takes allot of time, always in need to talk with sponsors and shorting things out

any tips for newcomers? 

It’s all about taking a decision, then you just need to prioritize. There is tons of excuses, so its important to prioritize. Set a date early, then its easier to work towards it. And last but not least, ask for help, there is always someone who can help you with what you need..

the author being super happy about his new Solo Sister cap. 

This days, it’s seldom that woman who compete in sports, who act as excellent leader or those like Johanna who are going on expeditions like this, gets away without hearing references to their gender. Johanna doesn’t approve on being put in a category like this. As she says, she is doing this under the same conditions and with the same challenges like any man, and doesn’t want to be portrayed like a female adventurer. Off course she admits it’s partly her own fault, by going on a expeditions where she beforehand focused allot on branding herself as the very first female swede to complete this. On the other hand, she stands firm, on claiming this got more to do with pure will power, than what gender your born into. 

Competition;

as part of Johannes campaign to raise money, her friends at Up ski &Mountain Guidesdecided to launch a competition. The competition is easy, and maybe more like a lottery infact. For as little as 200 SEK, you will get the chance to go on a one week ski trip in the French Alps, in the majestic Maurienne Valley. For more information about the lottery,se here. 

I don’t know about you, but Im buying a ticket for sure, and thereby helping Johanna as well!  

We wish Johanna the best of luck on her South Pole Adventure.

For more info about her journey, check out her homepage.